Introduction

Concrete pavers can be a low-cost, DIY way to transform your tired, dull concrete patio into an attractive outdoor living space. If your concrete patio is in good condition, skip the backbreaking (and costly!) step of removing it and simply install pavers directly over it. Laying pavers over a concrete patio is much easier than pouring new concrete or laying paving stones the traditional way. It requires less skill and less time, and is a whole lot easier on your back.

This technique requires two types of pavers. Glue thicker pavers to the concrete on the perimeter and lay thinner pavers on a sand bed on the interior space. The resulting look is one of our favorite patio ideas. Here we'll walk you through how to lay paving stones over concrete with help from two industry pros - Ricky Latterreur from Latterreur Landscapes and Gardens and Paul Ricalde from Paul's Toolbox.

What Are Concrete Pavers?

Concrete pavers are modular bricks made of concrete that are used to pave driveways, patios and walkways. Available in a wide variety of colors, sizes and styles, you can get creative with the design and layout of most paver projects. They are also easy to handle and require simple installation tools and materials, making pavers a great choice for DIY enthusiasts.

Interlocking pavers offer a more uniform look and have built-in spacers for exact joint spacing. Slab pavers have a more natural, varied look that resembles stone and can have varying joint widths.

Will It Work on Your Patio?

This project will work with most patios. Surface damage like flaking, chips and craters is no problem. "If the concrete is level, without erosion or large cracks it's a good candidate," Ricalde says. But a few conditions make this method a no-go:

• A too-low threshold: Door thresholds have to be high enough above the existing patio to allow for the thickness of the border pavers, plus an extra 3/4 inch to allow for "frost heave"—rising of the slab when the soil freezes.
• Expanding cracks: This method will work over most cracks — which grow and shrink with seasonal ground movement. But if you have a crack that has noticeably grown in recent years, this method is risky. The crack may eventually "telegraph" through the pavers, creating a hump or gaps.

Pros and Cons of Putting Pavers Over Concrete

Carefully consider these pros and cons before deciding if this project is for you.

Pros

• Installing pavers over a concrete patio saves time, money and labor.
• A standard paver patio rests on a thick base of compacted gravel. This patio cover-up will save you the cost of that gravel. More importantly, it eliminates the backbreaking drudgery of breaking up concrete, digging up soil, hauling it all away and hauling in gravel. On this 12 x 14-ft. patio, a patio tear-out and new gravel base would have meant more than 12 extra tons of wheelbarrow work.

Cons

• Putting pavers over concrete increases the patio height, which can conflict with connecting pathways, stairs or door clearances. "Make sure the paver's height is not going to impede with a door entry, window wells or steps," Ricalde says.
• For this project, design options are somewhat limited, as you need to choose border and field pavers of certain thicknesses.

Safety Precautions (if any)

Follow safety protocols when using power tools. Wear eye protection, a dust mask and leather gloves when cutting pavers and operating the plate compactor.

When to Call a Pro

If your concrete patio has large cracks or sinking panels, consult with a pro. Removal of the existing concrete may be necessary.

Before You Begin

Tools

The primary tools for this project will be used to cut pavers to size. There are a few options to choose from that will get the job done. Ricalde likes to use a tile saw with a larger diamond blade to cut through thicker paver dimensions. You can also use a 4-in. angle grinder with a diamond wheel or rent a concrete saw.

Rent a plate compactor to tamp down the installed pavers. Most home centers and tool rental businesses will have this tool available.

Materials

This technique requires two types of pavers. The pavers used for the border must be at least 3/4 inch thicker than the field pavers, which cover the area between the borders. That thickness difference will allow for a bed of sand under the field. A more than 3/4 inch difference is fine; you'll just need a little more sand.

To estimate how much sand you'll need, determine the square footage of the sand bed. Divide that number by 12 for a 1-in. bed or 18 for a 3/4-in. bed.

As for the screed pipe, a 10-ft. section of black or galvanized steel plumbing pipe works best. For a 1-in. bed, use 3/4-in. pipe; for a 3/4-in. bed, use 1/2-in. pipe.

Remember that each pipe size is listed by its inner diameter, but the outer diameter is what matters here: 3/4-in. pipe has an outer diameter of about 1-1/8 in.; 1/2-in. pipe, about 5/8 in. In both cases, you'll get an extra 1/8 in. of sand bed thickness and the field pavers will stand about 1/8 inch above the border pavers.

Then, when you tamp the field with a plate compactor, the sand will compact and the field pavers will settle flush with the border.

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